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Sint Maarten to Saba

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The Trip to Saba:

We  head for the island of Saba. a small 5 square mile island in the Kingdom of the Netherlands. If you have ever seen the original King Kong movie from the 1930’s, “Skull Island” is actually Saba’s silhouette. It isn’t where they filmed, but hey, you have to take what fame you can get.

We could fly to Saba via WinAir for a thrill and onto the shortest commercial runway in the world (a little shorter than an aircraft carrier) but want at least one boat ride.  So we have booked the Dawn II ferry. It is a smaller and less glamorous boat than the other ferries (not exaggerating here), but the only one on this day, and it offers a free Heineken! Holding up to 50 passengers and painted like a Heineken beer, most of us sit outside the main interior cabin under the canopy, watching clouds form over a shrinking Sint Maarten. One crew member announces a clue to the trip with “The port side is the wetter side”!

Dawn II Ferry

The Dawn II “Heineken” ferry leaves Sint Maarten for Saba Island. Clouds are brewing!

We came for some adventure, and the 26 mile 90 minute ride to Saba is no exception! Pitching seas on this particular day toss the boat about, and for a few on board, they toss their lunch also. Water occasionally sprays over the boat like ocean waves on rocks.

The Dutch Captain who has done this a gazillion times removed doubt and danger from my mind before we left port just by chatting with him and so I plan for a safe yet memorable adventure. So lets see. Fly in to the shortest runway or boat on a pitching ferry? You choose! It is a small adventure for spending time on a wonderful island.

Arriving late twilight we check in with customs, and load into the van cab sent by the Hummingbird Lodge. The ride to the 1200 foot elevation of the lodge up “The Road” is the next adventure. With just enough room for two cars to pass on this one road transcending the island, pulses raise a notch again!  Two foot high curbs are often the only thing between van wheels and over a 500 foot drop straight down.

Saba's The Road

The Road on Saba, Steep Cliffs with just a curb in between

The one Heineken on the boat now seems insufficient. On the other side of the road, a vertical rock wall. In between, two cars passing with no room to spare, casually tooting hello with our wheels inches from the curb as he chats with us! Does he not know one small distraction could send us over the edge?

But we trust the driver like we trusted the boat captain (having no choice, really). Peddy, our driver is a skilled Saban at his job and unloads luggage at the top of Hummingbird Villa’s very steep driveway. We are greeted by a friendly young couple running the Villa.

We three couples occupy the two bedrooms in main lodge, and a cottage by the pool. Views from a large deck overlook, as we learn at daylight, stunning views of the ocean, airport far below, and several other islands.

Saba’s thrill ride airport seen from Hummingbird Villa

Steep sloping hillside covered with vegetation and exotic fruit trees loaded full with fruit that we cannot name plummet to the water 1200 feet below. Behind us are “Saba Cottages”, white cottages with red tile roofs seemingly held up by glue to the side of the mountain.

Saban Hillside Cottages

Traditional Saban Cottages glued to the hillsides

Goats and chickens roam free range, bleating and crowing at dawn. We settle in for our four day stay, stirred to explore Saba, and hike up Mount Scenery, the highest point in the Kingdom of the Netherlands!

 

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Wineries Rise After the Firestorm, Part 1

The Firestorm of Sonoma County

Fall in the Wine Country

It was October 8, 2017 in Sonoma County, California.  Much of the grape harvest was in. Fifty nine percent of agriculture in Sonoma County is a result of wine grapes, so there is always a sigh of relief and private celebrations when that is done.

My wife and I were born and raised in Santa Rosa, and many of our friends and relatives work for wineries, and most family lives in the area. Deb and I moved to Reno in the 80’s, a couple hundred miles away, but are re-awakened to the sights and smells of the area that is part of our DNA when we road trip there, especially in the fall.

Napa Road Winery

Winery in the fall. This one barely survived as per burned hill.- Credit, Kenneth Hull

Unexpected Firestorm

We had booked a “Wine Road” event for November with another couple, and were excited to tingle our senses once again in wine country. As it turned out, this would not be an easy decision. On October 8, 2017 the winds in Sonoma County were high and warm, not atypical for Fall, until they ramped up to over 60 miles per hour on October 8. The worst conditions for wildfires. Then just like that, the fire gods struck their match, and the Wine Country Fires became history. Between Deb and I we knew two dozen friends and old classmates who lost homes, and several in the family with near misses. Fortunately friends and family made it out. Five percent of the residential inventory in Santa Rosa was destroyed. Over 8000 buildings and over 110,000 acres burned in wine country from the fires.

Several fires created their own firestorms and raced through the wine country of Sonoma and Napa Counties, so hot they melted rims on cars which  streamed into odd shapes on the ground.  Fires raced the distance of a football field in as little as 3 seconds. Hills were devoured from the fires.

Burned House

The Chimney remains- Credit, Kenneth Hull

To See or Not to See

I relive this because Deb and I weren’t sure we wanted to go down only a few weeks after the fires were extinguished to go wine tasting.  Deb didn’t want to see the destruction of where we grew up. We were feeling guilty about going when so many peoples lives and property were tragically affected, many who we knew. Sure, post on Facebook: “Having a wonderful time sipping wine while the locals mop up and try to find a new job and impossible housing for their families.”  Why would they want us there?

We called the Wine Road event to tell them we were cancelling as we assumed the event was cancelled.  The answer surprised us. “Please don’t cancel!”.  They explained how critical it was to get things back to normal. They has sold 800 fewer tickets this year.  “People’s jobs and families depend on tourism”. They also explained that Sonoma County is a big county. Although a huge amount of destruction took place, only ten percent of the county was directly affected. The hills are burned but the smoke has cleared, they pleaded.  “We need you! The way you can help is bring your business.”

So we went.  (Part 2 )

 

Mount Scenery- Higher than a Dutch Poulder

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Mount Scenery:

Mount Scenery’s summit on the small 5 square mile island of Saba is the highest point in the Kingdom of the Netherlands. You may be thinking, that could be just above bog height! Mount Scenery stands like a tall Dutchman at 2877 feet. It is a volcano jutting straight up from the bottom of the Caribbean. Although it hasn’t blown its top since 1640, Montserrat’s volcano just to the south erupted in 1995. Fortunately, we do not anger the Saban gods.

Many trails to hike!

We walk to the Trail Shop, and select walking sticks from the handy container to later be returned. Across the street is the trail head to Mount Scenery, leading to 1064 steps along the trail to assist with the steep climb from 1100 feet to 2900 feet.  These are not your normal steps. Different widths, heights and depths are what you get.

Mount Scenery Trail:

The 90 minute hike up is not for the unhealthy, with an 1800 foot rise on a trail just over a couple miles to the top. Fortunately no rain is forecast to make things more slippery, though some parts are near the top in the rain and cloud forest. Giant leaves from elephant ear philodendrons line the trail as we gain altitude. If there is rain, they will make a good shelter to carefully duck under knowing damaging the flora is prohibited.

Elephant Ear Philodendrons and foliage

Intermittent views through the thick foliage are spectacular, with the bright green flora against the blue Caribbean ocean and the red roofs of the Windward Side buildings seemingly straight below.   An occasional complaining goat or brightly colored chicken pops out onto the trail, neither are native to Saba.

Foliage, the Caribbean and red roofs

Dutch Bragging Rights:

Our party spreads apart as we climb and rest at different rates, gasping for air along steep upper trail. Taking pictures is a great excuse to stop for air. My wife Debra is on a quest to make it to the top and forges ahead, disappearing into the rain forest that swallows the trail ahead. Though we live in the USA, she is determined to make it to the top and can lord it over her Dutch relatives who live in the Netherlands. A couple of us stop to chat with a small Dutch group from the Netherlands who are on the way down and have bragging rights as well.

Steps up the steep trail on Mount Scenery

I forge on , some of our party ahead and some behind. Is the next bend the top? Nope! The trail is steeper, and slippery. Pipe hand rails line the steps. Clouds hug the terrain as I enter the cloud forest near the top. We started a bit late, will there still be a view?

Sitting on Top of the Netherlands:

I hear a couple familiar voices, fill my lungs and forge ahead up a steep switchback engulfed in ferns. A phrase pops into my head which I swear I will never use because I can’t stand it, but still  “the struggle is real!”.  Nope, I block it from thought. The trail flattens out, wet grass lining it in the clouds. Eventually we all meet where the trail splits. Debra has made it to the very peak where she had pulled herself up rocks with a rope. The rest of us opt out, and we all follow the other trail to the other vista point.

Wild chicken on Mount Scenery trail.

The name “cloud forest” now makes sense, as we cannot see more than 100 feet. No ocean, no neighboring islands.  Just the inside of a cloud, and a chicken that pops out of the underbrush looking for a handout. Yet we conquered Mount Scenery!

Highest point in Kingdom of Netherlands!

Friendly Sabans:

After a snack, we head back, taking “Bud’s Mountain Trail” half way down, longer with less incline to save our knees from the stairs on the Mount Scenery trail, passing through the five forest and vegetation zones. Near the bottom, a lovely Saba man of Irish heritage pops out of his cabin to greet us as though he is expecting us (common on Saba). Appearing hungry for company he sits us down for a rest, and regales to us stories about his life on the island and his family.

Saba is full of friendly storytellers

We may not have had a visual view of Saba from the peak, but we received an audio view as a gift from this wonderful Saban man. Things don’t move quickly on the island, just as the citizens like it.

Exhausted but satiated, we hiked back to the Hummingbird Villa and pried off our shoes arms length from a glass of wine. Follow this link from Saba Tourism for a more detailed explanation of the Mount Scenery vegetation.

Our Sint Maarten Lodging

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MARY’S BOON RESORT

We settled in for a few days on Simpson Bay at Mary’s Boon Resort. The 420 square foot rooms overlooking the bay are more like cottages. A winding road winds up the hill and over the pass toward Philipsburg in the distance. A long and steep zip line runs down one of the island mountain tops. I am reconsidering this challenge but we will see!

The night view from our deck lights up the bay complemented by our rum beverage, of course.

Caribbean beach

Mary’s Boon Resort off the deck Lights up the night.

During the day the occasional jet or plane, only a few of the large variety make their short lived presence on the runway next door.  Moments later, back to the sweet sound of the surf.

singing frogs

Night frogs singing at Marys Boon Resort

Night frogs sing their unusual song in the pond by the pool. We wondered what was making that unique sound. An employee shined a light on the pool and there they all were, singing their little hearts out.

A tiny one person boat regatta breaks out like a flash mob for our pleasure. The winds are steady as I check in on them occasionally, scurrying across the water somehow avoiding a similar situation to bumper cars. As soon as they all get to one spot a motor boat moves the buoy and they all race off to get there.  I await what tomorrow brings!

Mini regatta breaks out in Simpson Bay

To the Windwards!

Our house sitters are settled in and we are off!  I have appointments with historians on both Saba and Statia, and tours planned.  Volcanoes and rum here we come!  I will be posting as time permits.

Sint Eustatius and USA

First Salute to the USA, 1776

There is a unique connection between the small Dutch island Sint Eustatius (known as Statia) and the USA. November 16, 1776 Sint Eustatius gave the first international acknowledgement of American Independence.  “Statia” sold the colonies arms and ammunition, and an American ship approached “Fort Oranje” in the harbor, it shot off a 13 cannon volley for the 13 colonies.  Sint Eustatia’s reply by the Governor was an 11 cannon volley, two less, signifying acknowledgement of a sovereign flag.  Statia, now part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, celebrates this event every November as a holiday and celebration!

Wineries Rise After the Firestorm, Part 2

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The Decision to Go Wine:

Deciding to go play tourist at the wineries after all that had happened to friends, family and a part of the country we love dearly, the mood in the car drew quieter as we approached the Napa/Sonoma wine country.  I had been down once already to get with family and check on Mom’s house, which barely escaped with the ivy at front porch singed. The others had not yet seen the scope of things in person.

As we turned off Hwy 12 to Napa Road, still about 40 miles from Santa Rosa, the landmark original Clover Stornetta Dairy was gone, charred frames left jutting skyward into the now blue, smokeless sky. Traveling along the highway most of the forested mountains were burned, in stark contrast to the green tree sections spared by the fire gods for unclear reasons.

Vineyard fire break

Charred hills behind a vineyard acting as fire break. Credit- Kenneth Hull

The fires had occasionally charged back and forth across the highway as if the road wasn’t there, with homes, barns, landscape and ranches left in ashes along the road.  We mused as best as possible about the irony of the vineyards themselves acting as fire breaks, possibly saving homes and lives. Maybe that’s why only about a dozen wineries burned.

Haunting scenes of deserted housing developments with nothing left but chimneys standing like gravestones next to burned vehicles popped up as we approached Santa Rosa.

California Guardsmen assist local law enforcement following Santa Rosa fire

Coffee Park, Santa Rosa. Credit, California National Guard, Sgt 1st Class Benjamin Cosse: Licensing

Although the firestorm had consumed 110,000 acres, billions of dollars in damage and many lives, people there quickly shifted to recovery mode.  Not without pain and unforgettable memories, but for survival. There are mouths to feed, jobs to be done, friends and neighbors to support, now unobtainable rebuilding supplies to wrangle in the quest for regaining some seemingly idealistic dream of normalcy. The will to survive is what I now saw.

Gratefully Open for Business! Dustin pouring at Coppola Winery. Credit: Kenneth Hull

We turned North up Highway 101 and pulled into the hotel. Our reservation had been lost, and all rooms had been offered up to locals needing a place to stay.  Fortunately, a cancellation came in at that moment and we obtained lodging. Inside the Holiday Inn, Windsor Wine-Country which was doing its best to create normalcy for displaced locals, one would not know there had been such a disaster except for the occasional banter by locals about whether they would rebuild, or perhaps leave the area. Imported hazmat and fire crews spoke of their difficult job of sifting through the ashes.  None however were complaining or woeful or overcome. The prevailing attitude was about how to move forward to make the best of things already irrevocably complete.

Wineries to Visit

Friday we set out to taste at any of about 100 wineries for the weekend event. My expectation of what we might encounter in such a stressful time?  What I saw was not what I expected. We pulled into Foppiano to pick up our passes, and walked into smiling faces and a beautiful tasting and sweets pairing.

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Foppiano Growler.

Foppiano has been around since 1896 when the locals came by to fill their jugs up with table wine. Guess what. They still do! We bought a growler of their table wine to refill next trip, along with a few of their reasonably priced Estate wines. (Foppiano.com)

 

Following are notes on  interesting Wine Road visits we made to put on your list.

 

Virginia Dare:

Virginia Dare Restaurant MenuVirginia Dare Winery Restaurant

WEROWOCOMOCO Menu.

At the old Geyser Peak Winery, now the unusual Virginia Dare, you will discover how Francis Ford Coppola remembered the story of a legendary  “Virginia Dare” from his childhood.  Virginia Dare was the first child of English descent born in America in 1587, eventually being raised by the Chief of the Croatoan Tribe after the English settlers colony disappeared. Francis bought the rights to the “Virginia Dare” name and based this winery around Native American theme with “history, mystery and legends”.  I sampled some wonderful chili from the on-site restaurant for American Native food named “WEROWOCOMOCO”. Venison chili (yum!), Bison burger on acorn bun, cedar plank salmon and pine ice cream are a few items on the menu. Oh, and their wines are really nice too! (VirginiaDareWinery.com)

LOCALS:

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“LOCALS” Wine Bar for sampling great wines from small area wineries. Credit: Kenneth Hull

This is a great wine tasting bar in downtown Geyserville (the town is not that big, but great restaurants and small stores) representing ten smaller local wineries. The behind the bar persons pouring are friendly and knowledgeable. The store displays local art for sale, along with unusual clothing and other fun items.  (www.tastelocalwines.com)

Francis Ford Coppola Winery:

Coppola Winery

Coppola Wineries Family Concept. Credit: Kenneth Hull

This meticulous and beautiful winery is a sight to behold. It is more than just a winery with two swimming pools and dressing rooms, beautiful bocce ball courts, movie memorabilia and more. Francis wished to make the facility a family experience. For the event, their food offering was wild mushroom risotto prepared with wonderful spices and of course Pinot Noir.  Chatting with the servers here, I discovered that fifteen of Coppola Winery employees lost their homes to the firestorm. This winery paid employees wages for the time the winery was closed for the firestorm. Definitely a class act. The “Director’s Cut” wines became one of my favorites. Currently the proceeds from Survivor Vintages go to fire funds. (https://www.francisfordcoppolawinery.com/)

Selby:

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White House Letter to Selby Winery.

Susie Selby’s motto is “Enjoy wine, enjoy life”. She is the sole owner of Selby Winery founded in 1994. The tasting room is conveniently located in the heart of downtown Healdsburg. Selby Winery has provided wines as requested by the White House for events by four administrations including Clinton, Bush and Obama. Thinking it was a prank, she hung up on the first call from the White House! Letters from the White House hang on the walls of the tasting room. (SelbyWinery.com)

Roadhouse Winery:

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Mighty Fine Pinot Noir at the ROADHOUSE! Credit: Kenneth Hull

If you like high end Pinot Noir, this could be your place.  Outside of a few other varietals, the focus here is small lot high end Pinot Noir, consistently rating high and not at table wine prices.  This team of four are a fun bunch with a record player  in the lobby and a broad selection of music from Pink Floyd to the Beatles. The tasting room is on the Healdsburg Plaza. They source all Sonoma County fruit for their wines. (https://www.roadhousewinery.com).

AFTER THE FIRESTORM:

As tragic as this firestorm was, it did not burn every tree, every house and every business to the ground. It will take years of rebuilding and reforestation efforts, but this wonderful place is a tourist area requiring business as usual to rebuild! Green grass will grow back. By spring of 2018, most tourist and winery front facing areas will look like nothing ever happened.   Plan a trip. You, and the wine country locals will be glad you did.

Kenneth Hull

UPDATE:  Two years later.  2019 picture of fruit on the vine with a burnt hill in the background.  Recovery in progress!

New grapes, burned mountain

New Grapes – burned mountain behind two years later. Recovery! Credit: Kenneth Hull